INDEX 1. SIENA - MUSEUMS AND PALAZZI
3. PLACES WITHIN HALF AN HOUR OF BARONTOLI
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Being a city without a river, Siena has to depend on water from elsewhere. In the Middle Ages, the city arranged to bring water from the hills in underground channels (bottini) which emerge in “fountains” (fonti) all over the city, from which the citizens drew the water for their needs. The larger ones had three pools feeding into each other; the first and highest one was for drinking water; the next for watering animals and the third for laundry. Water flowing from the third pool then went on to operate mills or irrigate gardens. Many of these fountains were housed in architecturally distinguished buildings. Many fell into disrepair, but quite a few still have water coming into them and a society has been formed for their preservation and that of the bottini, called the Associazione La Diana (named after a mythical river that was supposed to have run beneath Siena). Someone with time on their hands and a taste for urban walking (they are very spread out) could do worse than go on a fountan crawl.
Fonte Gaia
The best known is the Fonte Gaia (or Fountain of Joy) in the Piazza del Campo. The city employed Jacopo della Quercia (c.1374-1438), Siena’s most famous sculptor, to give it a beautiful carved marble surround. Unfortunately, over the years it deteriorated and della Quercia’s work was replaced in 1858 by a replica – although without two of the original naked statues which the prudish 19th century city fathers decided were unsuitable for public view. The battered fragments of della Quercia’s fountain were kept, however, and can now be viewed in the Hospital museum.
The present day Fonte Gaia is now a favourite meeting place for tourists, and also for pigeons which perch on the statues of the Madonna and of the Virtues, Graces and animals that adorn it.
Fonte Gaia in Piazza del Campo (photo from Wikimedia Commons)
Fontebranda
There are several fountains with handsome gothic superstructures away from the centre, on the outskirts of the original walled city. Fontebranda, the next most famous after the Fonte Gaia, and the most beautiful of the gothic ones, is in the via Fontebranda up the hill from the Santa Caterina car-park, not far from St Catherine’s house. It is said to be the oldest of the fountains, dating back to the 11th century, although the present crenellated building with its ogival arches dates from the 13th century. It was fortified, along with the Pescaia and Follonica fountains, against possible Florentine attack.
Fontebranda Fontebranda had one of the strongest flows of water and was used by tanners and dyers, as well as more recently supplying a nearby municipal laundry facility and slaughter-house. All traces of the slaughterhouse have disappeared, but the building housing the old laundry is still extant (it was still being used in the 1970s), just down the hill from the Fontebranda fountain. Through the locked grill one can see the old wash basins with their stone slabs against which women slapped their washing to loosen the dirt. The old wash-house
The basins inside the old wash-house
Fonte d'Ovile The Fonte d'Ovile is another good Gothic fountain, is just outside the handsome Porta d'Ovile, down some steps opposite the Porta. It was built in 1260, but seems to have lost its importance when the nearby Fonte Nuova was built shortly afterwards within the walls which the citizens no doubt found safer and more convenient. It has long been in a somewhat neglected state. Fonte d'Ovile
Fonte Nuova d’Ovile
The Fonte Nuova or New Fountain, in via Pian d’Ovile near the Porta d’Ovile and therefore inside the walls, was built between 1296 and 1303 and again has a gothic superstructure, although only part of it remains. . Fonte Nuova d'Ovile
Fonti di Pescaia
The Fountains of Pescaia (always referred to in the plural, perhaps to emphasise their importance in medieval times) are yet another gothic structure fortified after the famous battle of Monteaperti in 1260 when the Sienese beat the Florentines and wanted to guard against retaliation. This large fountain supplied the pools in the area of the city where fish (pesce) for the city were reared. It is just off the via di Pescaia, the big by-pass road on the west side of Siena, near the via Martiri Caserma Lamarmora. The original crenellations can still be seen, but are now surmounted by an 18th century structure. It has in recent years been restored and in 2010 the “Museum of Water” (Museo dell’Acqua) opened in it. Visiting the museum is however complicated, as it requires prior notice (ask for information at the tourist office in the Campo). Visits to the subterranean bottino serving the fountain can also be arranged.
Fonti di Pescaia
Smaller fountains
There are also a number of much smaller fountains aimed at serving residential areas of the city. The three most accessible are:
Fonte del Casato
Fonte San Francesco (fountain of the Bruco contrada).
Fonte del Pantaneto
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Contrada fountains
In the decades following the Second World War, in a new tradition, each contrade designated a contrada “fontana” in which the children of the contrada could be given a baptismal initiation on the contrada’s feast day. Most of the contrade commissioned new fountains in a modern style with a sculpture of their symbol – below, for instance, is the fountain of the Eagle Contrada, which was built on the site of an old drinking fountain.
Fontana dell'Aquila
The Contrada of the Wave (Onda) has a particularly attractive one figuring it symbol of a dolphin. It is situated just below the church of San Agostino.
Fontana dell'Onda
The Contrada of the Porcupine (Istrice) has its fountain behind the church of San Pietro alla Magione at the top end of the via Camollia. Porcupines were imported into Italy by the Romans and have remained into Tuscany ever since, the the disgust of the farmers as they eat root crops like potatoes. Their quills can quite often be found around Barontoli, and you may see an actual porcupine while driving at night. Fontana dell'Istrice
The Contrada of the Panther (pantera) has its fountain on Piazza del Conte off via di San Quirico in the south-west part of the city. Fontana della Pantera
The contrada of the Forest (selva) has as its symbol a rhinoceras among trees, reproduced on its fountail in Piazzetta della Selva, below the ancient Hospital of Santa Maria della Scala. Fontana della Selva
These are small decorative fountains (fontane) rather than the utilitarian fonti that provided water to the city in days gone past. Some of the contrade, however, instead of building a new fountain, adopted an old fonte. As noted above, the Fonte of San Francesco is the fountain of the Caterpillar contrada and the Fonte del Pantaneto is the fountain of the contrada of the Unicorn. The Goose contrada uses the Fontebranda; and the contrada of the Shell uses the Fontana dei Pispini, a medieval fountain near the Porta Pispini. The website below has full descriptions:
www.sites.google.com/site/betsydonnelly/siena'scontradafountains.
2013, 2014 and 2015.
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